Honda GL1000 Carb Removal

Please consult a manual before you begin for additional information on carb removal. Do not attempt removing your carbs if you lack mechanical aptitude, proper tools or general intelligence. While I’m on the topic of manuals, I rely on three: the Official Honda GL1000 Workshop Manual, plus the ones from Clymer’s and Haynes. Generally, the Honda manual is sufficient, but sometimes the others provide helpful cross-reference.

I strongly recommend that you obtain at least one good manual before you delve into any repairs or maintenance. A good source for the Honda manual is: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp

My lawyer asks me to remind you that you are advised to heed all recommended safety practices detailed in the manuals listed above and that you assume ALL risks.

Carb Removal:

  1. Imperative – Move the bike outside before you begin to avoid fire hazard.
  2. Imperative – Disconnect the Battery Cables. To reduce the possibility of creating sparks, disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive cable.
  3. Imperative – Make sure petcock is in “OFF” position.
  4. Cover the top, horizontal surfaces of the valve covers (esp. the left side) with duct tape to prevent scratching the finish.
  5. Open the glove box door and remove the tool tray.
  6. OEM spark plug wires are marked according to the cylinder they serve (aftermarket wires are not). If your spark plug wire labels are illegible or missing, mark the wires now for future reference. Detach spark plug wires from spark plugs. Release them from the retainer clip on the chrome carb trim stay. Carefully, move the spark plug wires toward the front of the bike.
  7. Drain the carb bowls by loosening the 4 large brass screws near the bottom of each carb bowl. Use a large regular screwdriver with a wide blade. These screws are soft and easy to “bugger” if you use a screwdriver that’s too small. Usually, you only need to loosen these. If they are clogged, you may have to remove them all the way. You can fashion a small shallow bowl out of a plastic margarine tub to catch the fuel as it runs out. Instead, I usually sacrifice 1 shop rag per carb to absorb the fuel as it runs out.
  8. After all the fuel has drained, re-tighten the drain screws.
  9. Remove the wing nut(s) securing the air filter lid. Remove the lid and filter.
  10. Detach the crankcase vent hose from the right rear of the air filter housing
  11. Remove the 2 bolts retaining the air filter housing to the plenum with a 10 mm socket on a long extension.
  12. Remove the air filter housing.
  13. Remove the air filter housing to plenum rubber gasket and put in a safe location for later re-use.
  14. Detach the air-cutoff valve by loosening the 2 small Phillips head screws. Make sure you loosen the LOWER-MOST screws. There are also 2 UPPER screws that attach the cover to the top of the air cut-off valve…. don’t loosen the upper screws! (It houses the diaphragm and spring). Leave the air-cutoff valve attached to the vacuum hose which runs to the bottom of carb #1. Move the air-cutoff valve aside for clearance (you only need a fraction of an inch to ease removal of the carb assembly).
  15. Detach the fuel line to carbs at the fuel pump body. Leave the fuel line to the carbs in place. Insert a golf tee into the hose.
  16. Place as suitable cap over the fuel pump outlet.
  17. Loosen the locknut on the “Pull” throttle cable adjuster which is located at the midpoint of the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster “in” for max slack in the cable…effectively, you shorten the outer cable housing.
  18. Disconnect the choke cable and throttle cables (at the carb end). Click here for my “Tech Tips” section for helpful information on removing/installing throttle cables...”Knuckle Busting 101 – Throttle Cable Detach / Attach.” Make careful note of how the cables are routed around the frame as they approach the carbs. Take a picture or sketch a diagram.
  19. Remove the 8 acorn head nuts/bolts that attach the intakes to the cylinder head.
  20. Gently tap the the carb assembly with a rubber hammer to loosen it from the heads.
  21. Optional Step: loosen the intake manifold clamps on the right side and rotate the intakes 180 degrees to gain additional working space. I don’t find this necessary, but this makes wiggling the carbs off the bike easier for some.
  22. Carefully remove the entire carb assembly from the left side of the bike.
  23. Reattach the air cutoff valve.
  24. Important: block the intake ports with rags or tape to prevent anything from falling inside.
  25. Move the bike back inside.

Other Carb Service Links:

Carb Removal Instructions: click here.

Carb Shipping Instructions: click here.

While You are Waiting Instructions: click here.

Carb Install and Synchronization Instructions: click here. Yes, you will need to synchronize the carbs once they are reinstalled for optimal performance!

Warranty

Unfortunately, there are many issues beyond my control which affect the performance of your bike, so there is no implied or express warranty on this service.

I will do my best to ensure that your carbs are functioning properly when they leave my shop.

Comments

  1. Jon Moore says:

    There is one guy on You Tube chuckling about having to remove carbs off of his GL…who claims to have been the owner of “numerous old Hondas”. He claims to be a real expert and in fact resorted to “hammering” his carbs out using a 2×4 and hammer…

    This is when quickly moved on from his video…

  2. bekaert tim says:

    GL1000 Carb Removal: taking the airbox out from the top seems impossible, but necessary to remove the 2 screw from the air cut valve. How do i take it out?

    I’m resurrecting a 1978 gl1000 and i’m almost there, this would have been impossible without randakks blog, and want to thank you for that! Kind regards, Tim

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