1. Bearing Removal

Use a long punch (should have a good edge)
Remove any Circlips or retainers. Insert the punch into the wheel and catch the edge of the bearing on the other side. Using a hammer, hit the punch and work around the entire circumference of the bearing.
The bearing and seal will eventually be pushed out of the wheel hub. The second bearing can be removed using a punch, a long socket or other suitable driver.

Note: The bearings will be damaged during the removal process and should not be reused. The hammer blows transmit their impact through the balls causing small flat spots, which will cause the bearing to
quickly fail if reused.

2. Inspection

• Inner Spacer: Check the bore to make certain it is clean and the axle easily passes through it. Check each end for wear and burrs. The edges must be square to seat properly against the new bearings. If the old bearings failed it is a good idea to confirm that the center spacer has not been damaged. Make sure
  the inner space is the same length or slightly longer than the bearing stops in the hub or carrier.
• Wheel Hub: Clean the hub, removing any dirt and corrosion. Make certain not to remove metal. This will adversely affect bearing fit.
  Outer Wheel Spacers: Clean the outer wheel spacers and inspect them for wear on either end as well as wear on the outer surface where it makes contact with the seal. If the spacers are excessively worn they should be replaced.

3. Bearing Installation

• Note 1: Improper installation can cause bearing damage and dramatically reducing bearing life.
• Note 2: Heating the wheel hub will cause the hub to expand slightly and will make
  bearing installation easier.
  Follow the simple rules below to successful bearing installation:

1. Apply pressure ONLY to the outer race of the bearing.
2. Apply pressure evenly so the bearing remains square to the wheel hub.
3. Seat the first bearing fully.
4. Remember to place the inner spacer between the bearings.
5. Tap the second bearing in until the inner race just touches the center spacer. See fig 1 Fully seating the second bearing may cause both bearings to become side-loaded causing premature failure. See fig 2   

6. If the center spacer is loose after the second bearing is installed this may be a sign that the center spacer is too short and needs to be replaced or the second bearing needs to be taped in further.

A loose or worn center spacer can cause the bearing to be side-loaded in the opposite direction after the axel is torqued down. See fig 3

Thank you for purchasing a set of CB350 rearsets for that custom scoot!
Your business is appreciated.

This a detailed set of general instructions to install on your CB350/CL350.
Please follow them in order, and allow for variances from year to year on these
bikes. Japanese are famous for subtle changes from one model year to another.

1. Remove passenger pegs from both sides and suspend muffler if bracket is
attached.

2. The new mounts are symmetrical in shape and can be mounted to either
side correctly.

3. Once all rearset components have been accounted for, you can begin
assembly.

4. With the mounts still OFF the bike, Place the shorter of the 3/8-16 button
head bolts through the center hole at the larger end of the mount.

5. Slide a lever over the ‘nose’ of a hinge, and bolt the hinge to the outside
(single boss side) of the mount, using the shorter of the 3/8-16 buttons, and
a split washer.

6. Make sure the end of the bolt does not Protrude into the slot machined
into the hinge. This will impede free folding of the peg when installed.

7. You will need to judge by eye, the proper angle to set the peg so it folds up,
and maybe back a little. 5-10 degrees on estimate. The radius of the hinge
goes to the top.

8. Now you can place the mount on the passenger peg mounts with the
longer 3/8 bolt to the rear, and add the 6mm button head to the front.
Make sure to add the nylon lock nut to the rear mount bolt.
Updated 02/04/2014

9. Once again, this is just for Mock-up purposes. ADD LOCTITE Or an
equivalent thread locker to ALL threads when finished.

10. Once the mounts are on the Bike, you can add the male foot peg. It will
slide in with some possible drag. Than place the pin through the pegs and
add the washer and cotter key. Make sure the peg swivels freely.

11.Toe peg is next. Simple ¼-20 flathead stainless. This one you can loctite
immediately on first install.

Linkage

1. Shifter side is pretty straight forward. The shorter linkage goes on the
shifter side. Nothing changes if you use your existing shifter turned
upwards, and drilled/tapped; or an aftermarket unit. ie… fast from the past,
ebay…etc. What is important is that the final angle of the upper arm of the
new lever, closely matches the angle of the splined shift arm you use. In
other words, If your comfort position has the lever arm pointing forward
approx. 20 degrees, you want the splined shift arm pointing forward
approx. 20 degrees.

2. Place a ball joint on both ends of the threaded rod (short piece) with a jam
nut already installed on the rod. Screw the ball joint on about half way.
Leave the jam nuts loose at this time.

3. Find a comfort zone with the lever and toe peg position. Make sure it is
good for upshifts, and downshifts. Now align the splined shifter arm
accordingly.

4. A good position for a drilled hole on the splined shifter(if you are resuing
your stock unit) is 1.875 -2.0 inches from the splined pivot. Too short, and it
will be a little harder to shift. Too long, and it will increase the distance of
throw needed for shifts. You may drill a couple holes if desired. This will
give you an option for feel.

5. Drill thru with a 5/16 drill, or letter “O” or 8mm.

6. Slide ball joint stud thru, and add jam nut. LOCTITE THIS THREAD WHEN
MOCK UP IS COMPLETED, BUT NOT THREADED ROD.

7. Brake side next. With the mount, and lever bolted into position, place a ball
joint onto each end of the threaded rod. Remove the brake arm from the
drum at the rear wheel. This will need to be rotated up to vertical or near
vertical. Some models have a notch on the splined stud coming from the
drum at the clamp pinch point. This will need to be ground off to rotate the
arm to vertical.

8. There is a jam nut on the stud end of the ball joints. On one end, add the
coupler to the stud. Screw it on about 3/8 inch. Tighten the jam nut to it.
This is the end at the lever, the coupler acts as a spacer to give clearance
around the shock. Add a bolt thru the lever and secure that end of the
linkage.

9. The other end gets attached to the brake arm with the supplied ball joint
and nut.

10.Double check travel on the brake side for engagement, and you may need
to adjust linkage to get adequate stopping power. Or change the angle of
the arm.

11.At this time, there is no provision for the brake light switch, and you may
need to adjust the angle of the drum arm at the rear wheel as well, for a
more comfortable lever angle.