1. Bearing Removal
Use a long punch (should have a good edge)
Remove any Circlips or retainers. Insert the punch into the wheel and catch the edge of the bearing on the other side. Using a hammer, hit the punch and work around the entire circumference of the bearing.
The bearing and seal will eventually be pushed out of the wheel hub. The second bearing can be removed using a punch, a long socket or other suitable driver.
Note: The bearings will be damaged during the removal process and should not be reused. The hammer blows transmit their impact through the balls causing small flat spots, which will cause the bearing to
quickly fail if reused.
2. Inspection
3. Bearing Installation
1. Apply pressure ONLY to the outer race of the bearing.
2. Apply pressure evenly so the bearing remains square to the wheel hub.
3. Seat the first bearing fully.
4. Remember to place the inner spacer between the bearings.
5. Tap the second bearing in until the inner race just touches the center spacer. See fig 1 Fully seating the second bearing may cause both bearings to become side-loaded causing premature failure. See fig 2
6. If the center spacer is loose after the second bearing is installed this may be a sign that the center spacer is too short and needs to be replaced or the second bearing needs to be taped in further.
A loose or worn center spacer can cause the bearing to be side-loaded in the opposite direction after the axel is torqued down. See fig 3
Thank you for purchasing a set of CB350 rearsets for that custom scoot!
Your business is appreciated.
This a detailed set of general instructions to install on your CB350/CL350.
Please follow them in order, and allow for variances from year to year on these
bikes. Japanese are famous for subtle changes from one model year to another.
1. Remove passenger pegs from both sides and suspend muffler if bracket is
attached.
2. The new mounts are symmetrical in shape and can be mounted to either
side correctly.
3. Once all rearset components have been accounted for, you can begin
assembly.
4. With the mounts still OFF the bike, Place the shorter of the 3/8-16 button
head bolts through the center hole at the larger end of the mount.
5. Slide a lever over the ‘nose’ of a hinge, and bolt the hinge to the outside
(single boss side) of the mount, using the shorter of the 3/8-16 buttons, and
a split washer.
6. Make sure the end of the bolt does not Protrude into the slot machined
into the hinge. This will impede free folding of the peg when installed.
7. You will need to judge by eye, the proper angle to set the peg so it folds up,
and maybe back a little. 5-10 degrees on estimate. The radius of the hinge
goes to the top.
8. Now you can place the mount on the passenger peg mounts with the
longer 3/8 bolt to the rear, and add the 6mm button head to the front.
Make sure to add the nylon lock nut to the rear mount bolt.
Updated 02/04/2014
9. Once again, this is just for Mock-up purposes. ADD LOCTITE Or an
equivalent thread locker to ALL threads when finished.
10. Once the mounts are on the Bike, you can add the male foot peg. It will
slide in with some possible drag. Than place the pin through the pegs and
add the washer and cotter key. Make sure the peg swivels freely.
11.Toe peg is next. Simple ¼-20 flathead stainless. This one you can loctite
immediately on first install.
1. Shifter side is pretty straight forward. The shorter linkage goes on the
shifter side. Nothing changes if you use your existing shifter turned
upwards, and drilled/tapped; or an aftermarket unit. ie… fast from the past,
ebay…etc. What is important is that the final angle of the upper arm of the
new lever, closely matches the angle of the splined shift arm you use. In
other words, If your comfort position has the lever arm pointing forward
approx. 20 degrees, you want the splined shift arm pointing forward
approx. 20 degrees.
2. Place a ball joint on both ends of the threaded rod (short piece) with a jam
nut already installed on the rod. Screw the ball joint on about half way.
Leave the jam nuts loose at this time.
3. Find a comfort zone with the lever and toe peg position. Make sure it is
good for upshifts, and downshifts. Now align the splined shifter arm
accordingly.
4. A good position for a drilled hole on the splined shifter(if you are resuing
your stock unit) is 1.875 -2.0 inches from the splined pivot. Too short, and it
will be a little harder to shift. Too long, and it will increase the distance of
throw needed for shifts. You may drill a couple holes if desired. This will
give you an option for feel.
5. Drill thru with a 5/16 drill, or letter “O” or 8mm.
6. Slide ball joint stud thru, and add jam nut. LOCTITE THIS THREAD WHEN
MOCK UP IS COMPLETED, BUT NOT THREADED ROD.
7. Brake side next. With the mount, and lever bolted into position, place a ball
joint onto each end of the threaded rod. Remove the brake arm from the
drum at the rear wheel. This will need to be rotated up to vertical or near
vertical. Some models have a notch on the splined stud coming from the
drum at the clamp pinch point. This will need to be ground off to rotate the
arm to vertical.
8. There is a jam nut on the stud end of the ball joints. On one end, add the
coupler to the stud. Screw it on about 3/8 inch. Tighten the jam nut to it.
This is the end at the lever, the coupler acts as a spacer to give clearance
around the shock. Add a bolt thru the lever and secure that end of the
linkage.
9. The other end gets attached to the brake arm with the supplied ball joint
and nut.
10.Double check travel on the brake side for engagement, and you may need
to adjust linkage to get adequate stopping power. Or change the angle of
the arm.
11.At this time, there is no provision for the brake light switch, and you may
need to adjust the angle of the drum arm at the rear wheel as well, for a
more comfortable lever angle.
Different sprocket sizes – larger or smaller – what is the impact on performance?
Final drive ratio.
Divide the rear sprocket tooth count by the front tooth count and you have the final drive ratio. For example: 35 / 15 = 2.33:1
If you want to change your gearing, you can calculate the impact of the change before you purchase the new sprockets.
For example: your bike cruises at 60 mph / 4,000 rpm and has a final drive ratio of 2.33:1 – if you want more acceleration, changing a 35 tooth sprocket for a 37 tooth sprocket and leaving 15 tooth on the front changes the ratio to 2.47:1 (37 / 15 = 2.47:1). Divide your cruising RPM by 2.33 and multiply by 2.47. Using the example from above, 4,000 rpm becomes 4,240 rpm at 60 mph. You’ll get more acceleration, but will sacrifice
Changing sprocket diameter can present problems – sprocket clearance on the front limits how big you can go, and you want to avoid going too small as the tight turn wears the chain prematurely. Additionally, you can run into problems with the chain slapping the swingarm if you go too small on front and/or rear. This is something you cannot always see when the bike is static, the combination of swing arm movement over the bumps, and acceleration or deceleration cause the chain to tag the top OR bottom of the swingarm.
Changing sprocket sizes may effect chain length. As roughly 1/2 of each sprocket has chain touching it, each tooth added to stock sizes will require approximately 1/2 link of additional chain. Increasing total teeth by one or two teeth can usually be accommodated by moving the rear axle forward slightly and keeping the stock chain length – but if you start changing sprocket sizes more than one or two teeth, you will need to increase chain length. Going up four teeth will require a chain 2 links longer.
630, 530, 525 & 520 chain?
O-Ring, X-Ring, non-O-Ring?
What does it all mean?
Chain comes in a variety of pitches and widths. It is crucial to select the correct chain and sprockets for your bike.
The first number of the chain type designates the chain pitch and represents the distance between each pin in eighths (1/8) of an inch.
630 chain is 3/4″ pitch (or think of it as 6/8″), 530 chain is 5/8″ pitch, and so on – so if you are not sure what size chain you have on your bike, just measure the pin-to-pin distance.
The second two numbers show the width of the roller section of the chain in eighths of an inch – with an assumed decimal point between the numbers. 630 chain is 3/8″ wide and 525 chain is 5/16″ wide (2.5 eighths).
520 = 5/8-inch pitch, 1/4 inch wide
525 = 5/8-inch pitch, 5/16 inch wide
530 = 5/8-inch pitch, 3/8 inch wide
630 = 3/4-inch pitch, 3/8 inch wide
The O ring in modern motorcycle chains protect the chain from moisture and dirt – both of which contribute to rapid chain wear.
The O-Ring style chains now come with a variety of different shaped O-Rings to provide more protection – The following pictures from RK Excel shows the different shape O-Rings used in chains today – the X and W profile O-Rings trap lubricating grease and help provide protection.
However, here are some small disadvantages of the O-Ring chains…
1. The total width of the chain is greater than non-O ring chain – the presence of the O rings spaces out the side plates and requires longer pins – this adds to the weight of the chain and can require spacers to ensure the wider chain clears the engine cases. With a select few models (CB350F, CB500F and CB550F), you cannot use an O-ring chain due to the chain rubbing the transmission cover.
2. The O rings create a small amount of drag on the chain that results in a minor performance loss at the rear wheel. The big advantage of the O ring chain is the greatly improved life of the chain – often doubling or tripling the life of the chain and sprockets over an equivalent non-O ring chain and sprockets. You do still need to use a chain lubricant on the chain. Match the chain lube to the type of chain.
Chain has different tensile rating – this strength rating shows how much force it would take to pull a chain apart – the higher the tensile rating, the stronger the chain.
Motorcycle chain uses an alternating over/under link pattern. Because of this, chain is always sold in even numbers of links.
NOTE: Avoid putting non-motorcycle (industrial) chain on motorcycles, these chains are NOT designed for running at speed and enduring the harsh stresses put on them by a motorcycle.
Why change to 530 chain?
There are several reasons…
1. Cost savings – the 530 chain tends to work out about $10-$15 cheaper.
2. Weight saving – this is less mass the engine has to drive – and this is tied directly with HP to the rear wheel.
3. Color and O-ring variety. There are multiple colors of 530 chain, and more variety of O Ring types.
In converting, it is easy to calculate the 530 sprocket sizes (see below) – but then you need to match against the availability of sprockets. If you want custom sprockets, just about any size rear sprocket can be made in aluminum – the caution here is cost and wait time – depending on the time of year, you can wait 3-4 weeks for a custom sprocket, and may pay $30-$50 (or more) over the cost of a steel sprocket.
630 chain is 3/4″ pitch (or think of it as 6/8″), 530 chain is 5/8″ pitch – so the simple conversion in teeth is to divide the 630 sprocket teeth count by 5 and multiply by 6.
530 to 520 conversions don’t change the tooth counts, just the width of the chain and sprockets.
• 630 15 tooth front becomes a 530 18 tooth sprocket.
• 630 35 tooth rear becomes a 530 42 tooth sprocket.
• 92 link rear chain becomes 110.4 links (rounded to 110).
The sprockets are the same diameter as before, just with more (but smaller) teeth.
Often you end up with fractions of teeth – these you must round up or down – the key here is to calculate a ratio close to the ratio you require…
To be able to easily convert from 630 to 530, you must find sprockets with the same mount attributes:
• Rear sprockets that have the same center size and bolt spacing. The following two sprockets have the same 80mm hole spacing, bolt centers 104mm apart, and bolt holes 10.5mm in diameter.
• Front sprockets, the center spline size, and teeth count must match to be able to swap the sprockets – the Z=13 shows the spline count, and the 25mm & 21.6mm show the diameter and depth of the teeth. Lastly, if there are any offsets or raised bosses on the front sprocket, you must look for the same on the conversion sprocket or adjust with spacer washers if the spline
allows.
Sprocket spacing is important too – on the two front sprockets above, you will see the 630 version has a boss (raised area) to the inside – to be able to switch to the 530-equivalent sprocket, spacers must be added to give enough clearance between the chain and the engine cases. We sell 1.5mm & 6mm spacers.
This kit is proprietary to Randakks…you won’t find this available anywhere else at any price.
This high-value kit has been created using the same philosophy as Randakk’s industry-leading GL1000 and GL1100 Master Carb Overhaul Kits.
This kit is proprietary to Randakks…you won’t find this available anywhere else at any price.
This kit has been created using the same philosophy as our industry-leading GL1000 Master Carb Overhaul Kits.
This kit is proprietary to Randakks…you won’t find this available anywhere else at any price.
This kit is proprietary to Randakks…you won’t find this available anywhere else at any price.
Randakk Master Carb Overhaul Kit(R) includes everything you need (and nothing you don’t!) for a comprehensive FT500 carb overhaul.
