One in a Million! Allan Zahrt’s Million Mile GL1000

How many million mile motorcycles are there?  Answer below. Read on!

July 2017

Allan Zahrt with his Million Mile GL1000!

In the early seventies Honda launched without fanfare an ambitious project. Internally, Honda had a bold plan: to build the world’s best motorcycle. Not just the best Japanese motorcycle  – the best motorcycle available anywhere in the world. Period! The eventual result of this project was revealed to the world at the Cologne, Germany International Motorcycle Show (INTERMOT) in October, 1974 as the GL1000.

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“Insensitive” Idle Mixture Fuel Screws?

I often field this common complaint: 

“I’ve noticed that turning the idle mixture screws nets different results on each of the individual carbs on my Honda GL1000:

  • #1 will kill the motor if turned all the way in
  • #3 has NO EFFECT on engine speed regardless of where it is set
  • #2 has what might be considered a “normal” effect
  • #4 has only a very slight effect if any at all

What does this mean????? I’m a bit confused?  Help please!!!!”

GL1000 Idle Fuel Mixture Screws

GL1000 Idle Mixture Fuel Screw

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The Single Most Common Carburetor Problem (Clogged Pilot Jets) and How To Fix – by Ari Henning

I’m happy to share this excellent video tip created by Ari Henning of Motorcyclist Magazine. Ari is a notorious AHRMA road-racer and all-around swell guy!

This is excellent information.

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Randakk’s Jetting Advice For Vintage Honda CV Carbs

Whenever I’m asked about “jetting” issues on vintage Honda carbs – here’s my strong advice:

JoukoCarbs3

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Honda Float Bowl Drain Screw Placement

Honda GL1000 float bowl drain screws will be difficult to loosen for periodic maintenance if the float bowls are installed onto the wrong carbs.

There are specific left/right carb bowls plus a special bowl for carb #1 (with vacuum hose barb). The bowls will bolt up and run fine on the wrong carbs, but it will be hard to get a screwdriver blade onto the drain screws when the carbs are installed on the bike.

Carb Bowl Drain Screws

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Early vs. Late Carb Mixing and Matching / Honda GL1100 Carbs on Honda GL1000? + Honda GL1000 Carb Specs

You might consider this item: Randakk’s GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video

GL1000 Carb Interchange Issues

JoukoCarbs3

Honda GL1000 Carbs Restored by Randakk Customer Jouko Tomminen of of Lahti, Finland

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Honda GL1000 Floats 101

Randakk now offers GL1000 and GL1100 Float Setting gauges. Details here

I show how to set floats in the video: Randakk’s GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video

Setting Float

Note: The procedure for setting the float levels on GL1100 carbs is essentially the same as the one for GL1000 carbs described below. The only difference is that the float level spec for the GL1100 is 15.5 mm instead of 21.0 mm.

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Vendor Spotlight: J.R. Luksik and CBX-tras

J.R. Luksik of Clinton Township, Michigan owns CBX-tras and is a Randakk Approved Carb Rebuilder who utilizes Randakk carb components exclusively in all his work.  J.R.’s specialty: Honda CBX and DOHC4 models such as the CB1100F.

Contact J.R. Luksik athttps://www.cbxtras.com

email: cbxtras@gmail.com

CBX-tras promo shots 007

J.R. Luksik with a Few of His Hondas

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7 Volt Regulator Problems

A “step-down” auxiliary voltage regulator drives the fuel and temperature gauges on GL1000s. This clever device provides a constant 7V input voltage to power these gauges. This effectively buffers the wide normal fluctuations in battery voltage. Without the step-down regulator, your gauge readings would be very unreliable because main battery voltage varies with rpm, load, stator output and accuracy of the voltage regulator. Many older cars use this same technology for the dashboard.

7 Volt Regulator

7 Volt Auxiliary Regulator 

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Lazy / Slow Return to Idle (or Erratically High Idle)

You might consider Randakk’s GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video

Are you plagued with a bike that runs great from about 2000 rpms and up, but refuses to idle reliably below that speed? Does it sometimes idle OK, but often “hang-up” at a higher speed and take forever to return to idle? Do you have to put a small load on the engine (by letting out the clutch a bit when stopped and in gear) to get the engine to return to idle speed? Does the idle speed seem overly sensitive to changes in ambient and operating temperature? If so, read on.

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